Grains beyond dough

Whole grains add much more than just crackly crunchiness to dishes. Their texture is inviting, but nutty flavors and alluring scents play a big part in their appeal as well.

Of course, there's the healthy component, too. Reports tell us that folks who regularly eat whole grains have a reduced risk of obesity, and lower cholesterol levels. Whole grains are high in B vitamins, vitamin E, antioxidants and fiber.

Although the beneficial health aspects are impressive, my food-loving goal is to show them off in ways that make them irresistible. And that was Maria Speck's intention when she wrote her book "Ancient Grains for Modern Meals" (Ten Speed, $29).

Recipe-wise, there is nothing with namby-pamby flavors. The author uses fresh ingredients with bold flavor profiles to create her Mediterranean-style dishes. I'm especially impressed with the way she showcases wheat berries and farro, as well as coarse-ground cornmeal or polenta. Uncooked whole-wheat berries are sold "hard" or "soft," according to Speck, who says she prefers the soft variety. They cook in less time and are a little less chewy, making them attractive additions to stew, pilaf and salads.

The author uses the cooked, cooled wheat berries in a lovely dessert, a cunningly recast version of the old-fashioned British treat called a "fool." Instead of whipped cream, she makes a mixture of plain Greek yogurt and lightly whipped cream. Wheat berries, orange liqueur, honey and dried figs team to give the dish its scrumptious taste and texture. If you prefer, you can use other cooked whole wheat varieties in this dish, such as kamut, spelt or farro.

Farro, which is sometimes labeled emmer wheat at health food stores, is the ancient whole-wheat grain that is oh-so-popular in Italy. The taste is an appealing combination of barley and hazelnuts. Speck makes it the chewy playmate in a mussel stew with fresh herbs, carrots, celery and tomatoes. Don't let the long list of ingredients keep you from giving it a try; the preparation is straightforward. And if you prefer, substitute cooked pearl barley or brown rice for the farro.

Polenta gives tart crusts a toothsome backbone. The author says to look for packages labeled "polenta" or "corn grits" (but not instant or quick-cooking types, or prepared polenta in a tube). She warns that polenta and grits that are sold in the U.S. are often refined, which makes them not a whole grain.

She says to look for coarse or medium-coarse, stone-ground, whole-grain cornmeal from Bob's Red Mill.

Here's a sample of her whole-grain enriched recipes:

ARTICHOKE-ROSEMARY TART WITH POLENTA CRUST

Yield: eight first-course servings

For polenta crust:

1-1⁄2 cups low-sodium vegetable broth

1-1⁄4 cups water, see cook's notes

1⁄2 teaspoon salt

1-1⁄4 cups polenta or corn grits

1⁄2 cup shredded Parmesan cheese, about 2-1⁄2 ounces; use large holes on box grater

1 large egg, room temperature

1⁄4 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

For filling:

1 cup plain whole-milk Greek yogurt

2 large eggs

1⁄2 cup finely chopped green onions, about 3

2 tablespoons chopped fresh Italian parsley

1 tablespoon minced fresh rosemary

Salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste

1 (12-ounce) package frozen quartered artichoke hearts, thawed, drained

2 ounces crumbled goat cheese, about 1⁄2 cup

1⁄2 cup shredded Parmesan cheese

Cook's notes: If using coarse, stone-ground cornmeal instead of polenta, reduce the amount of water to 1 cup.

Procedure

For crust, bring broth and water to boil in large heavybottomed saucepan over medium-high heat. Add salt. Using a large whisk, slowly add polenta in a thin stream and continue whisking for 30 more seconds. Decrease heat to low and cover. Cook for 10 minutes, stirring vigorously with a wooden spoon about every two minutes to keep polenta from sticking to bottom. Remove from heat and let sit, covered, for 10 minutes, stirring a few times. Polenta will be fairly stiff. Stir in cheese, eggs and pepper.

Grease a 10-inch ceramic tart pan with olive oil or coat with cooking spray and place on wire rack. Have a tall glass of cold water ready. Dip a wooden spoon into the water as needed as you spread the polenta mixture across the center of the pan, pushing it up the sides. Set aside to firm up at room temperature, about 15 minutes. Form an even rim about 3⁄4-inch thick with your slightly moist fingers, pressing firmly. No need to fret over this — it's easy.

Adjust oven rack to middle position and preheat oven to 375 degrees.

For filling, place yogurt, eggs, green onions, parsley, rosemary, salt and pepper in medium bowl and combine well with a fork. Distribute artichoke quarters over crust, cut sides up, forming a circle along the rim and filling the center (you might not need all the hearts). Sprinkle the goat cheese on top and gently pour the filling over the artichokes. Sprinkle with Parmesan cheese.

Bake until top turns golden brown and filling is set, about 45 minutes. Transfer pan to wire rack and set aside at room temperature to firm up for at least 20 minutes, 40 if you can wait. Using a sharp knife, cut into slices. Serve with more freshly ground pepper on top if you like.

MEDITERRANEAN MUSSELS WITH FARRO AND WHITE WINE

Yield: four servings as a main course, or six servings as a starter

For farro:

1-1⁄2 cups water

3⁄4 cup farro

1 small bay leaf

2 whole peppercorns

Pinch of salt

For stew:

2 pounds fresh mussels in their shells

2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil

1 cup finely chopped yellow onions, about 1 small

1 cup thinly sliced carrots, about 2 small

1 cup thinly sliced celery stalks

2 to 3 cloves garlic, lightly crushed

2 teaspoons minced fresh rosemary, divided use

2 bay leaves

1 dried red chili

1⁄2 teaspoon salt, divided use

1-1⁄2 cups dry white wine, divided use

1-1⁄2 cups chopped fresh or diced canned tomatoes with their juices (14-ounce can)

1-1⁄2 cups water

1⁄4 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

1 teaspoon sugar

To finish: 2 tablespoons fresh lemon juice plus lemon wedges for serving

2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil

1⁄4 cup chopped fresh Italian parsley

Procedure

To prepare farro, bring water, farro, bay leaf, peppercorns and salt to a boil in a 2-quart saucepan. Decrease heat to maintain a simmer, cover and cook until grain is tender but still slightly chewy, 20 to 25 minutes. Remove bay leaf, drain any remaining liquid and set aside.

While farro simmers, rinse mussels under cold running water, brushing to remove sand and residue on the shells. Remove beards (hairy clumps around the shell) with tweezers or a sharp knife. Discard chopped mussels. Tap any open mussels and discard if they don't close. Set the clean mussels aside.

To make stew, heat olive oil in a large Dutch oven or heavy bottomed pot over medium heat until shimmering. Add onion, carrots, celery, garlic, 1 teaspoon rosemary, bay leaves, chili and 1⁄4 teaspoon salt. Cook, stirring frequently, until vegetables soften, three to five minutes.

Increase heat to medium-high, add 1⁄4 cup white wine and cook until syrupy and liquid is almost gone, about two minutes. Add tomatoes, water, remaining 1-1⁄4 cups white wine, pepper and remaining 1⁄4 teaspoon salt; bring to a boil. Cook, uncovered, at a lively simmer until carrots are crisp-tender, about five minutes. Stir in sugar.

Add mussels and farro together with the remaining 1 teaspoon rosemary and bring to boil. Cover and steam over medium to medium-high heat, shaking the pot once or twice in between, until mussels open, two to three minutes. Remove from heat and discard any unopened mussels.

To finish, add lemon juice. Taste for salt and pepper; adjust seasoning as needed. Drizzle mussels with olive oil and serve right away in deep plates, garnished with parsley and lemon wedges on the side.

WHEAT BERRY FOOLS WITH GRAND MARNIER FIGS

Yield: eight servings

3⁄4 cup finely chopped dried figs, preferably Turkish or Greek

3 tablespoons Grand Marnier or other good-quality orange-flavored liqueur

1 cup plain whole-milk Greek yogurt

4 tablespoons honey

1 tablespoon plus 1 teaspoon freshly grated orange zest, about 2 oranges, divided use

1⁄4 teaspoon ground cinnamon

1 cup cooked soft whole wheat berries, see cook's notes

1 cup heavy whipping cream, chilled

Cook's notes: To cook wheat berries, place 1 cup wheat berries in bowl and cover with cold water; soak overnight. Drain. Place in saucepan with 1-3⁄4 cups water and bring to boil over high heat. Cover and reduce heat to medium-low; simmer until tender but still a little chewy, 40 to 50 minutes. This yields about 3 cups; leftovers can be cooled and frozen for later use. Cool cooked wheat berries before using in this recipe.

Procedure

Combine figs and liqueur in a small bowl and set aside to plump for 15 minutes, stirring once or twice, while you prep the ingredients.

Meanwhile, beat yogurt with 2 tablespoons honey, 1 tablespoon orange zest and cinnamon in large bowl until smooth. Stir in wheat berries. Using a hand mixer at medium speed, whip cream in a medium bowl until foamy. Add remaining 2 tablespoons honey and continue whipping until soft peaks form.

Drain figs, reserving their juices. Combine 2 tablespoons of the figs with remaining 1 teaspoon zest in small bowl and set aside for garnish. Stir the remaining figs into the bowl with the yogurt mixture. Scrape 1⁄3 of whipped cream on top and fold in using a rubber spatula. Fold in remaining whipped cream in two additions until just incorporated. Divide among individual serving bowls, cover with plastic wrap and chill for two hours. To serve, top each bowl with a bit of the reserved fig and their juices.